Lost in Colors...

TOOLS OF THE TRADE: COLOR SELECTION

     With such a wide variety of colors available for both hardbaits and softbaits these days... How do you choose? Well, for me personally-colors are the last thing I care about in a bait...."but, but, but, tequila sunrise and california 420 are the best" you say. Don't get me wrong, color is an essential part of the equation...but one of the less important factors. Really in most cases, the finish on a bait is made to sell the bait to the angler. I always laugh when I see an "ultra-realistic" finish on a crankbait. When a bass hits a crank, it makes a split-second decision to react. It does not study a bait and then "decide" it is real. A bass lacks the brain power to make those observations into a thought process. Instead, the bass relies on instinct. So a productive bait is getting an instinctive response from a combination of the bass's senses working at once. As far as visual cues go, I believe bass react more to shape and action than color in a moving bait. Now, what about plastics? Once again, I believe the most productive plastics are ones with realistic movements and scents. Many plastics only slightly resemble the creature they are mimicking. It is the movement of the baits that I believe produces the predatory response. Of course, matching your bait to what the bass are keyed in on also helps with a quick decision to strike the bait. All this said, here are some things to consider when picking colors.

BASS VISION

Bass eyesight has been studied many times and biologists have found that bass can indeed see colors but their color eyesight is limited. Bass see shades of green and red the best. Interestingly, purple and blue colors simply fade to indistinct an dark or light shade to the bass. That's right, bass can't see blue! So what makes a particular color appealing to bass? Well, probably not a  specific trigger in a color but simply how visible or non-visible the color makes the bait. So how visible is the bait to the bass? You must consider water clarity, depth and light penetration to pick your colors. Yep, the old dark day-dark bait, bright day-bright bait rule is a good one to follow. There are, however, exceptions.


CONTRAST

My No.1 favorite color is....Black! My No.2 favorite color...White! As visual feeders, contrast plays a huge role in color selection. It's no secret that black is one of the most productive colors. I believe it is because it helps the bass see the bait better. In clear water, a "lighter black" would be your blues and purples...if that makes sense. A green pumpkin color plastic is also very popular because it is dark and has contrast against it's surroundings as well as a natural color that bass can depict. Natural colors for plastics like browns and greens might not look the same to bass as it does to us but if you are matching local forage then bass are seeing a color they are used to seeing. When it comes to crankbaits, spinners, etc. I especially go for contrast. Not only do I like strong contrast against the water or sky, I like my paint scheme to have contrast as well. Simple two tone baits have a natural appearance. I'm more interested in stark contrasts on the paint job than actual colors.


SHINE AND GLOW 

Bass like shiny things. It is only natural as sunlight reflects off of baitfish creating a shine or glow. In murky water, light refraction shows up more in a glow while in clear water it is a bright shine. This also depends on the amount of sunlight hitting the water. So, in dingy water I like to throw chartreuse and bone as these colors give off a glow. In clear water, I like chrome with black or blue to give contrast but if it is really bright and clear out I will usually opt for simple natural contrast. I also will use gold in certain situations. Often it is less about a preferred color as it is a color that helps send instinctive cues to a bass by way of shine or glow.

SEEING RED 

There is a theory among some circles that bass respond to the color red because it represents blood which can trigger a predatory response. Most biologists seem to agree though that a bass relating the color red to wounded fish is likely beyond the mental capacity of a tiny bass brain. Bass don't make cognizant observations like that especially on a moving bait. That said, red can be both a natural and a very visible color to bass making it very productive at times. Nearly all colors at times can catch bass though and that in itself should tell you about how important color selection is. Bass are less likely to reject a bait due to color than other factors. Keep it simple and use common sense. Don't overestimate a bass's power of deduction, instead concentrate on what produces an instinctive response in the presentation of the bait. Remember, most of the time a detailed finish or highly realistic paint job is there to look good to the angler and sell baits. Start with the basics of bass vision and feeding cues and then let the fish write the rest of the story.

Muddy Waters: How to Start Kayak Fishing...

       MUDDY WATERS

          We've all seen it. The stoked new guy asking an innocent question about what kayak/ reel/pfd/sunscreen to buy. Then everybody's biased opinions start flying, arguments erupt and Mr. Newbie isn't so stoked anymore. The water is indeed muddy. As much as online group fishing pages and forums seem the right place for advice, they are not. Few people are willing to be honest and try to help. Someone is always going to try to sell you on what they use. They could be right, they could be wrong. How do you know? Well, here's some suggestions.

DEMO

The best answer to your questions about what gear to get is hands on experience. These days it's pretty easy to line up a kayak demo but kayaks aren't the only thing you should demo. Clothing, tackle, fishfinders and everything else are easier to assess by going to a retailer and putting them in your hands. Asking about something online and then putting in an order can often result in a hard lesson learned. The only way to figure out what is best for you is to try out the options. A kayak demo can be eye opening. Handling a reel in the store can make you change your mind. It doesn't matter what anyone else uses, it matters what works for you.

TRIM THE FAT

Okay, so you know you need to go check some stuff out but how do you narrow it all down? The choices are endless, so start at the top. Industry names that are trusted and time-proven are your best place to start. They say imitation is the best form of flattery but the originals usually do it best. Look at things like the warranties offered, top-seller lists and what anglers who win big tournaments are using. These type of things will say much about a product. If you are on a particular budget, make a list of the most important items and spend as much as possible on those. When it comes to things like the right kayak and being safe in it...don't skimp on dollars there. A good way to make your budget more efficient is by checking out the DIY videos on YouTube and seeing what things you might be able get cheaper. Narrow your selections down to a few quality products, go check 'em out, then weigh the personal pros/cons of each product for you.

THE RIGHT RESEARCH

Okay, so obviously online research isn't completely useless. Here are some ways to do it the right way. First, go to an online retailer and check for reviews on the product. Some of these can be eye opening and they are generally not from sponsored anglers. However, on the flip side...take a look at who the company sponsors. If a guy who has won the bassmaster classic is repping something, I'm a lot more likely to be interested. An angler who has experience with many products and has narrowed it down themselves should have good input especially a successful big tournament angler. Also, go to the company's web page and look at product specs, look at what materials they use. Lastly, there are videos out there showing every product you could think of in action. Once you see why and how something works, it's easier to make a decision on if it would work for you.

DON'T JOIN A PRO-STAFF (right away)

One big mistake I'm seeing these days is people who want to join a pro-staff as soon as they start kayak fishing. It's getting easier to do because some companies take advantage of the hunger by signing people up for a discount on a product that is sometimes below par and other times completely unproven. You need to figure out what is BEST for you as an angler if you want your game to excel. Repping a product just because you want to rep a product and then promoting it to other anglers is a detriment to yourself and others. In the end, will you be standing by the product you recommended to other anglers? Would you sell out for a better deal? These are questions you won't have to ask yourself if you develop yourself as an angler first. The only way to get the right direction for a pro-staff is by patience and experience on the water. Once you found the certain item that you truly believe in (and have had success with)so much you think you could sell it, then consider pro-staff options... whether it be a big company or your strange brother pouring custom jigs in his garage. If you are a new kayak angler eager to make a name in the sport then remember only you can make a name for yourself by honing your skills. Don't let a little ego-boosting attention limit you to a certain product until you are certain what products make you the best angler you can be. The water is muddy and there will always be different strokes for different folks but if your heart and passion lies in the sport of kayak fishing then shoot for the stars--not just bright lights.
                                                                                     

    

Topwater Tactics

Tools of the Trade : Topwater Tactics

  The sun sat high overhead, the sky  was a wide open bright blue without a cloud to be seen. The light glanced off of 200 square yards of algae bloom and lily pads coating the surface. As I peered through amber lenses, I could see dragonflies hovering just above the soup and dark figures passing through open pockets beneath them. From a broad lily leaf "Lithobates catesbeianus" made a long-legged jump towards the mat. He landed softly and sat still, watching the dragonflies. I was dealing with a case of afternoon lull ennui and tossed my Spro frog towards his position. The bullfrog, sensing my movements began to quickly retreat across the mat in short, high speed leaps. About half way across the water erupted just behind the frog. The frog made even more haste which in turn triggered five or six explosive strikes in a row. The bass stayed hot on the bullfrog's trail until he ran out of swimming room. "Can't beat the real thing" I mused. I hadn't got a frog bite in 4 hours. Then the lightbulb came on. I casted across the mat and began to retrieve the frog much faster then I had before. A 5 pound bass crushed the frog with fury. It was the largest fish of the day. That day, my topwater game changed. A couple years later, in the cloudless heat of an August afternoon, I would catch one of the biggest bass of my life in eight feet of open water on a frog bait. There is no mistaking, topwater baits produce giants at times when it seems nothing else is producing.

    If you know me, you know I have an absolute obsession with frog fishing. My two largest bass last year both came on a frog. However, topwater fishing in general is my favorite way to target big bass. It's not very challenging to fish topwater in the kayak, the bait is always in the strike zone which makes the presentation more forgiving. The keys to topwater fishing are confidence, observation, bait selection and also gear choice. Here's a bit of insight into these key things that I promise will sharpen your skills.

CONFIDENCE

You've seen it done, you know it works. This is the thought most anglers have when trying a new bait or technique. It is indeed true and if you are not having success with topwater it could be for a variety of reasons. It could be the speed of your retrieve or the size of your bait. Keep trying and experimenting, fish confidently as if you expect a strike at any moment. I like to always imagine a fish is following my bait and then anticipate ways to make that fish strike. All it takes is a few blow-ups to gain confidence in what you are doing. Try things like stopping the bait suddenly or speeding up the retrieve, try banging it off of nearby cover like you would a crank or spinner. Topwater baits work from the mid-40 degree water temps all the way to mid-summer heat. There are also always shallow bass to be caught. This makes topwater fishing an absolute must have skill for the tournament angler.

OBSERVATION & BAIT SELECTION

I can't help but recall watching smallouths take advantage of the locust hatch in Kentucky a few years ago. I never expected to tie on a jitterbug that day but the fish told me what they wanted. There is no better information available on what to throw when it comes to topwaters than what you simply observe on the water. If I see shad busting the surface, wakes, schools of feeding fish, flocks of diving seagulls or even certain marks on my sonar-I'm going to be throwing a shad style topwater like a zara spook. Other times in open water with colder temps, I might throw something noisy and slow like a tri-wing buzzbait or a jitterbug. If I'm fishing shoreline cover I will almost always throw a frog. Still, I always observe. If I'm fishing a mat and I see bluegills popping bugs off the surface, I might switch from the frog and start throwing a popper. Let your surroundings tell you what the bass are eating, pick the correct topwater imitation and find a way to fish your bait that makes the fish react.

GEAR CHOICE

It is crucial to have a couple different rods for topwaters that are matched with the correct baits. For frogs you will need a heavy weight rod on braided line. You are setting two big hooks into big fish that can bury themselves in the cover. You need the old broomstick and winch. I like a 7:1:1 reel for my frogs so I can fish them fairly fast. I also almost always throw super size baits (I'll get to why in a minute) so I'm not shy about a heavy, eight foot frogging rod. The action of the rod is a matter of personal preference. Some like to use a slower rod, personally I like a fast action rod (I'll get back to that too). I like to fish stickbaits, prop baits and poppers on mono line as it seems to help keep the fish pinned on the trebles. Braided line with a lighter, slower action rod works as well.





BIG BASS

So here are the juicy bits of this post. I am 100% sold on topwaters being one of the best big bass baits but I hear people complain they only catch small to medium sized fish on them. My theory is big bass like big meals most of the time. A frog  has the same appeal as fishing a swimbait in a way. It is a rewarding, realistic looking meal to the fish. When that meal appears vulnerable it ignites instinctive, hyper aggressive bites you don't get with other baits. I believe using big baits help spurn that instinctive attack mode from larger bass. Oversized frogs, stickbaits and poppers are what fill the compartments of my tackle box. If I have to downsize to catch fish, they are typically not the size I'm looking for. Don't be surprised though when a bass barely larger than the bait gets caught. Big topwaters provoke more strikes from bass period. There are tips you can use to also maximize your results. For instance, bending your frog's hooks slightly upward with a pair of pliers will increase hook-up ratio. Also, trimming the legs on your frog can help with short striking or less aggressive fish. There also accessories you can use to change the dynamics of your frog. The new buzz frog style baits offer a different action, there are also feathers, spinner blades and trailer hooks you can add. It is good to ponder when and why a certain bait would work better. Another tip is don't be afraid to fish a topwater anywhere. I will throw a frog in the middle of a brushpile, I'll also throw it over open water that is 50 feet deep. I've also learned that speedy retrieves produce more strikes than a stop and go retrieve. Sometimes, I'm reeling in as fast as I can and the fish will slam it just as it reaches the kayak. If you are fishing fast and not connecting, try letting the bait sit for a long time or pitch a plastic bait to fish that have revealed themselves. Some will debate me here but I am also a firm believer in immediately setting the hook on a frog bite. This is for the same reason I like a fast action rod. When big bass hits my oversized frog on a speed retrieve, it is usually a violent and very accurate strike. I have seen fish with the frog half swallowed after I immediately set the hook. The idea that it takes a fish awhile to get the bait is only true when they are going through a thick mat and even then, a very thick mat. The time it takes to react to a strike and set the hook is plenty of time. Bass eat things off the surface all the time, they have no problem catching a frog and when you see that explosion the bait is in the fish's mouth. A lot of food the bass eat is twice as large as the typical topwater bait. I catch most of my frog fish and I always set the hook immediately. Once again, I stress experimenting until you gain confidence. Hopefully, you found something useful here that you can apply on the water to strengthen your topwater game. Once you realize the power of topwater fishing, you won't want to throw anything else.

  

Fishing Jigs & Plastics in the Kayak

TOOLS OF THE TRADE:JIGS & PLASTICS


    The category of jigs and plastics is perhaps the most expansive group of bass lures. It encompasses not only a broad selection of plastic and terminal tackle but also many different associated techniques.Fishing these baits is almost always a slow presentation. This means the fish have plenty of time to study your offering. It is important to throw a bait that is a realistic representation of the local forage. When I am going through the task of selecting a few baits from a plethora, the first thing I take into account is the size, shape and color of the prey species in the lake I'm visiting. I also take into account the seasonal caloric needs of the bass at the time to help determine bait size. If I'm fishing a lake I've already established successful baits on, I usually start with those and begin to experiment if they don't produce. One of the reasons jigs and plastics are so effective is because there is so much room for experimentation. To this day, new techniques and rigs are being developed and given a proven place on the water. Also, because of the diverse amount of options in jigs, rigs and baits we can select something that will provide an effective presentation in nearly every scenario. As an angler, it is important to recognize which technique is needed in a given situation. I could spend all day covering each technique and bait style but there is a lot of information on this stuff out there, I want to cover a few kayak fishing related tips for jigs and plastics. As always, kayak fishing calls for a few adjustments to the traditional methods we use.

POSITION

 A drifting kayak can be a headache for an angler trying to slowly work a jig or plastic. This is one of the reasons I love my Hobie kayak. I can pedal to hold position and even make rudder adjustments with one hand while I work the bait. When I used to own a paddle kayak, I would lay the paddle across my lap, occasionally using one hand to make position adjustments with the paddle. The Assault hand paddle also comes in very handy for position tweaks during a retrieve. Tying off or nosing up to the bank also helps in certain situations. Once again, it is better to position correctly so you can make an effective presentation then spending time fishing a bait in an unrealistic fashion. When fishing a shoreline make casts in front of your kayak, whether you are facing the bank or parallel to it. Sometimes, when it is really windy there is not much you can do about drift. In this case, I will feed line to the bait to keep it from moving involuntarily. All the while keeping contact with the line to detect bites until I can engage the spool again. Another very key tactic is use of electronics. This tool allows you to not only find the fish but you can log your position and stay on point, this keeps your bait in the strike zone and allows you to calculate your drift on the water. Position is the number one key to successfully fishing jigs and plastics in a kayak.

HORIZONTAL TIE

When sitting in a kayak, you don't have as much hookset leverage. This is especially true on long casts. If I'm making long casts with a jig, I prefer a horizontal line tie as it helps turn the hook in the fish's mouth and get better penetration. This all has to do with the angle you are setting the hook at. When possible, I will fish from a standing position. If I'm fishing shallow cover like rip rap, I like to use light round ball jig heads as they seem to slide over things the best for me. It is often hard with the movement of a kayak to effectively work a jig through rock, this is why I like very light jigs for this. Even if a gust of wind or a wake pushes your kayak sideways there is a less chance of light jig slipping into a crevice and hanging up.  On the other hand, in deeper water I like a heavy jig that keeps me in contact with the bottom, once again aiding in the natural challenges fishing from a kayak presents.When I'm kayak fishing I like to offer a vertical presentation whenever possible because of the leverage I gain. A drop-shot, power-shot or even a jig works great on everything from brush piles in a few feet of water to offshore ledges in 35 feet. Water clarity often dictates when you fish vertical in shallow water but don't underestimate the sneakiness of a kayak.





BE SENSITIVE

The one thing every good jig and plastic fisherman knows is how the bite feels. It is an acquired skill. This type of fishing requires attention to every detail, sometimes the bite is a twitch in the line, sometimes it is a weightless feeling on your line, other times it is a subtle tap that is easier to recognize. Generally speaking, a bass will swim up to your bait, examine it and then it flare its gills and suck in the bait. In this critical moment, the angler must detect the bite, pick up the slack line and slam the hook home. Being a sensitive angler starts with very a sensitive rod that will report everything from the movement of your bait, to bottom composition, to a subtle bite. There is a rod out there for each technique but sensitivity is the key. This is an area where I will spend whatever I need to get the perfect rod. Anglers would be surprised how many fish bite that they don't even feel  because of the rod they use. Sensitivity also comes into play with the line you use and even the bait. If you can't feel the bite you are simply shooting arrows in the dark.

CONFIDENCE

Jigs and plastics are some of the most dangerous and versatile tools of bass destruction in your arsenal. Of all the types of baits out there, these baits can actually be some of the most effectively fished baits from the kayak. They have won many tournaments and are an absolute staple of the serious tournament angler. If you have no confidence then keep trying and keep experimenting. Fish the bait confidently, have patience and seek advice. It all starts to make sense pretty quickly. Let the fish tell you what they want and don't want. Follow the suggestions above and you will be able to narrow down your choices and find a winning technique. As I've said before the best anglers are the most well rounded. Everything from finesse plastics to heavy football jigs has its time and place. It's your job to go fishing and figure out what, how and where jigs and plastics work for your fish.

Crankin' From the Kayak

TOOLS OF THE TRADE: CRANKIN' FROM THE KAYAK...

          The most successful bass tournament anglers are those who know how to use all of their available tools to put fish in the boat or kayak. This is especially true for lure selection. Teaching yourself to master different techniques expands your reach on the water and builds confidence. Kayak fishing presents it's own unique challenges in even traditional bass presentations. In the coming weeks, I'm going to cover different popular bass techniques and how to adapt them to fishing in a kayak. I'm also going to reveal a few kayak specific tactics and secrets. The first type of bait I want to cover is crankbaits. I hear discussion on the challenge of crankin' in a kayak perhaps more than any other method.



  I remember my first time throwing a crankbait in the yak. I whipped it out a country mile and began cranking it back. Between my glass rod and the slow reel I felt like I couldn't get the bait down. In fact, it seemed the fat series squarebill was reeling me in. I quickly learned I could gain more leverage retrieving the bait to the side of my kayak instead of the front. I also found I could use the wind to help put tension between the bait and my kayak. Still, I began to realize cranking was less effective in the kayak. The first time I tried to throw a 6xd it was immediately apparent it was time to re-think everything. You can't always control your direction during a retrieve from a kayak. There's not as much resistance on the bait. For everything from large squarebills on up to deep divers...more often than not-the struggle was real.

   The first thing I changed was my rod and reel set-up. I switched to a heavier, longer rod with a medium fast action. This helped keep fish pinned and gave me more leverage on the bait. I also started using deeper diving  crankbaits on floroucarbon line to ensure I could reach the bottom. For instance in areas I would normally throw a 4-6 ft. diver I use a a 6-8 ft. diver instead. These changes really helped me to crank more effectively in a normal casting scenario. However, I found myself using some of the following ideas when the going got tough.

STAKE OUT

A stake out pole, a tree limb or even a buoy make great tie offs for your kayak. Sometimes getting the right casting angle and pressure on the retrieve requires a stationary position. This can even mean sitting on a weed mat or nosing up on a sand bar. The more stationary you are the better. A paddle leash attached to fish grips makes a great quick attach device so you can efficiently hook up to something and move on. An anchor on a trolley also works in certain situations. Let's not forget the advantage a Power Pole or reverse drive kayak would also give you while cranking. It's better to take the time for an effective presentation then to throw a bait that is not performing correctly or reaching the correct depth.

LIPLESS

Lipless cranks are a versatile tool that offer less resistance on the retrieve. I personally have learned to be more creative in my use of lipless cranks while kayak fishing. I've had success in all seasons with a vertical yo-yo offering of the lipless on traditional deep crank spots. I also remove the front hook and fish it like a squarebill. You can also burn it over grass in spots you would typically throw a waking bait. Most techniques are born out of necessity, don't be afraid to experiment with and utilize this bait in unconventional ways.

LONG-LINING

An underutilized technique for crankin' in the kayak is long-lining. While most kayak tournaments outlaw trolling, long-lining is another option for covering ground with your bait at the right depth. It is very simple, just drop your bait in the water where you want to begin your retrieve, then with the reel on free-spool, pedal or paddle across your bite zone for a longer distance than you can cast. Then engage your spool and make your retrieve. This method works particularly well for deep cranks.


When all is said and done, it is possible to just go chuck a crank and catch fish. However, if you want to maximize your game, especially in tournaments-
it pays to account for both the subtle and not so subtle differences the kayak platform presents. Learning to use all the tools available to you correctly is a great start to more success on the water. Hopefully, these tips will help you sharpen your skills as a kayak angler!